And Homeward bound!
We have finally left Fiji, with everything working we hope, and are homeward bound, with a bit of time to spend in Vanuatu en route. Spent a week testing the new auto-pilot most of which we spent at Musket Cove where we were hit one afternoon ( luckily and NOT in the dead of night when these things usually happen,) by a 40 knot wind while at anchor. This was quiet dramatic as on our stretched anchor we had a boat on a mooring half a boat length behind and another at anchor half a boat length in front meanwhile boats were dragging anchor left right and centre so we had to sit it out with the motor running in case we did the same but there was no way we could actually get it up and and reset in these winds. Had the usual lovely ‘ farewell’ from Vuda Point Marina which had become a home away from home. The staff at this marina- office, bar, managers,boat boys, etc are with out a doubt the friendliest, most welcoming of anywhere we have come across in the world. They all know your name and greet you with it – and hugs- every time you return.
We have enjoyed Fiji although we found it very stressful cruising. It is virtually uncharted which means someone has to keep an eye out for reefs. While there we had several friends who managed to hit the dreaded things and this was something we could not bare. So in a lot of ways we were glad to leave all in one piece.
So it was then off to Vanuatu. I have often been asked have we been caught in any really bad storms and while some of it has been pretty uncomfortable I have been able to truthfully answer ‘ No’ but unfortunately the answer is now ‘ Yes’. We took this passage pretty lightly as it was only 600 nms, about four days but on the third day at 10pm at night we were hit by the mother of all storms. The winds got up to over 50 knots – this is 100kms – the seas got up like I have never seen and the rain belted down. The Auto pilot could not handle the conditions and David had to hand steer all through the night – in those conditions this is not fun. The waves were breaking into the cockpit and one wave took our life ring and downbouy off the Pushkin at the back.. By the morning the conditions had improved marginally but we were still hooning along with nothing more than a handkerchief up at 6 or 7 knots. And then, as could be expected, the winds dropped for the last four hours and the motor was on again. This storm developed in what is known as a ‘squash zone ‘ when a high and low meet. I think it is a phenomena that is unique to the Pacific and is really hard to forecast. Anyway rounded Pentecost Island and dropped anchor in a beautiful little bay and spent the day getting Fanny ship shape again. Everything inside had been thrown everywhere during the storm.
Sailed on over to Luganville on Espiritu Santo Island the next night. This is the largest Island in the group and second largest in population (9000). It is also one of the most northerly.
Did the usual check in then picked up Susie & Richard Rowntree, who are here for a week with us, from the airport. The next morning we sailed around to Petersons Bay, got a nice anchorage with not another sole in sight. The next morning we did some exploring and just around the corner in another fabulous bay found a very low key Resort ( Octypus).
Were advised there was a river we could dingy up to some “Blue Holes”. This we did, about two Kms through very lush and beautiful vegetation. At the end is a large limestone blue hole. The water rises up through the rocks and is incredibly soft. There are apparently quiet a few of these holes throughout Santo. Had a really good dinner that night at the resort and did some repairs to Little Fanny who is saying she has had enough of this tropical sun beating down on her and is trying to die but we keep saying “only a little while now!” And patching her up.
Next day sailed up the coast to Hogs Bay. This is home to the famous Champagne Beach rated a one of the three best beaches in the world, and it certainly is. Soft white sand and turquoise water. The water is amazing and almost feels bubbly like you are swimming in champagne hence the name. Visited the village where The people are very friendly, very dark skinned, speak a bit of English, most of them or otherwise a language call Basmati which is a combination of French & English and Pigeon. Vanuatu is I think the worlds best kept secret. It is the quintessential tropical island, incredibly beautiful, the water is clean and clear and warm and it is totally uncrowded. We are having beaches and anchorages to ourselves. It is a great place for diving ( maybe the divers know about it) .It was used as a base during the war by the US. As a result they left good roads, 3 airports, and a good hospital. A couple of days here and then up to Port Orlay which had some nice coral to snorkel on. Took Susie & Richard back to Hog Bay where they got a lift back to Luganville and flew home and we sailed Fanny back over a couple of days. Unfortunately the south –east trades are still blowing and we will be going south all the way to Tanna which will be our jump off point and the last island we will visit, so many days of beating into the wind are ahead of us but some lovely islands to visit on the way.
Once again I have mucked up the photo. I have been using my phone and don’t seem to be get them on the iPad to include with this so just walked to the front of Fanny and took a snap of our mooring outside Aore Resort. Met up with two Austrians last night who we first met in Columbia two and a half years ago and have been bumping into them ( not literally) all across the Pacific ever since. They had hit a reef here so our worries are not completely over yet!
Hope everyone well from All aboard Fanny Fisher